The John Tesh Blog

Put a patch on what ails your car- you can, you know, all on your own!

So you've decided to hang on to your car, and get every single mile out of you can. Good for you- but it's going to cost you! Relax- probably not as much as if you decided to buy a new car, but what you can't afford to do is ignore repairs- sometimes you don't have a choice! But repairs don't have to be costly- in fact, many can be patched yourself! How?- Charles Pluddeman writes for MSN Autos- it's not as hard as you might think!  In the military, it's called field expedience: making do with what you have available. If you're driving an older car or truck, the application of a little field expedience could just save you a few bucks — maybe more — in the short term. No military experience? Were you a Girl, or a Boy Scout? Ah-ha- now that motto is coming back to you: Be prepared.

If you are keeping a clunker on the road, make that motto yours. A few basic tools and materials stashed in your vehicle's trunk will greatly enhance your field-expedience success rate. If your odometer is reaching, or is passed! the 200,000 mile mark, better put together a do-it-all-just-in-case tool kit that stays in your car, and includes in it some basic hand tools, like a multitip screwdriver, locking pliers and an adjustable wrench. Other good ideas for your kit: a wire cutter, plastic zip ties, a few feet of mechanic's wire, a small multi-tool and, of course, a roll of duct tape.

Please remember to exercise as many safety precautions as possible when attempting any repairs on your vehicle — even the most minor ones. Autos are heavy machines, so chock a tire to keep the car from rolling, take care around belts or other moving parts, and let engines and mufflers cool before touching them. Consult an auto repair manual for any further safety precautions. 

Here are 14 patchwork repairs anyone can accomplish:

Blown Hose

While generous wraps of duct tape can be used to patch a failed radiator or heater hose temporarily, you need to get a new hose pronto, since the heat will deteriorate the adhesive quickly. Another adhesive on the market is called Rescue Tape- much more expensive than duct tape, but another option. It's a self-fusing silicone tape specifically designed to withstand extreme pressure and temperature, and used in place of duct tape for other repairs/fixes you might have. If the hose has failed close to its end, it may be possible to unclamp the hose, cut that portion off and reattach the remainder. A blown hose usually means a loss of radiator fluid, so remember to top off the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water as soon as you can.

A Squeaky Belt

Try a dab of a non-abrasive cleanser to quiet a squealing serpentine belt, which drives the alternator and other accessories on late-model engines. One mechanic says he puts a few drops on the inside of the belt where it goes around the lowest pulley, and the mild abrasive removes the shiny glaze from the belt. Of course, you do this while the engine is off. Otherwise, this is a dangerous repair.

Hanging Exhaust Pipes...

The exhaust pipes of most late-model vehicles are made of stainless or coated steel that resists corrosion, but the fasteners and other components that hold it up can still fail, leaving your muffler dragging on the pavement. The pipes are often hung from the chassis with rubber donuts or straps that can break. You can secure the pipe to this hanger with wire — a piece of coat hanger will do the job. (Coat hanger in the kit: check.)

Or a Noisy Exhaust

An exhaust pipe that has broken or has a hole in it can often be mended with a soda can and a couple of stainless-steel hose clamps. Cut the ends off the can, and then cut it lengthwise (scissors can cut an aluminum can). Wrap the can around the affected section of pipe, and secure it on each end with the hose clamps. A thicker piece of metal, such as an old license plate, will last longer. This should always be a temporary repair, of course, since any exhaust leak under the car can be dangerous.

No Brakes

A professional mechanic tells the story of how he once got home after a brake line failed. When the brake pedal went to the floor, he discovered one of the steel brake lines had failed near a back wheel. He cut the line, bent it over itself, and crimped it tight with a vise grip (yep- so go ahead and include one of those in your kit.) This left him with brakes on three wheels and, after topping off the master cylinder to replace the lost fluid, he was able to limp to a shop.

Dead Battery

Without jumper cables or an emergency jumper battery, you are stuck. That is, unless your car or truck has a manual transmission, in which case you can practice the ancient art of "bump starting." You'll need a hill to roll down, or friends to push the car. The driver turns on the ignition key, puts the transmission in second or third gear, and holds in the clutch. Get the car rolling, and then let out the clutch. The car's momentum turns over the engine, and it will start. This almost always works on older vehicles with carburetors. Cars with fuel injection need to generate enough electrical charge to energize the fuel system, and if the battery is stone dead a bump start might not work. It's easier just to carry jumper cables.

Frozen Door Lock

If moisture from rain or the car wash gets into the key slot of the door lock (and you don't have remote entry), you could be locked out on a freezing morning. First, of course, try another door if that's an option. If not, try warming the key. A pocket lighter can be used — the key does not have to be red hot, just warm. Slide it into the lock and wiggle it a little. The warm key will thaw the moisture, and you're in. Later, shoot a little WD-40 into the lock to displace the moisture.

Locked Out

It used to be easy to break into a locked car with a coat hanger snaked past the window frame. But it's even easier to simply unlock the door with a spare key you've stashed someplace on the car, like a tie wrap under the right, or left, front bumper...or someplace else, since that location is now "out there"! For late-model cars, get a duplicate made of the key that opens just the door (not the $150 microchip-equipped ignition key). If your car door can only be unlocked electronically, you'd probably be wise to practice some with that coat hanger.

Leaking Fuel Tank

This one is absolutely a temporary repair. A small fuel tank leak caused by a rock or other sharp impact (perhaps you've been off-road with the Corolla) can be fixed by placing a rubber washer over a sheet-metal screw, and then turning the screw into the hole. You'll need a screw big enough to fit tightly in the hole. Look in the plumbing-supplies aisle for the washer. This works on steel or plastic fuel tanks.

Smearing Windshield Wipers

Wiper blades can often be renewed by scrubbing them with some window cleaner and a rag, or the abrasive side of a kitchen sponge. This removes the oxidation, dirt, oil and dead-bug residue that causes the blades to leave streaks behind.

Stuck Lug Nuts

It's impossible to change a flat tire if you can't loosen corroded or overtightened lug nuts. Too many cars come with dinky lug wrenches that do not provide much leverage. Try this: Place the wrench on the nut so its handle is horizontal at the 9 o'clock position. Then stand on the wrench. Try bouncing a little. If this does not work, get someone heavier to stand on the wrench.

Stuck Wheel

In regions that get lots of snow, road salt and de-icing chemicals can cause the center of an aluminum wheel to fuse to the steel or iron hub behind it. If the lug nuts are off but the wheel is stuck to the car, try this: Thread the lug nuts back on, but leave them loose. Lower the jack so the car's weight is back on the wheel. Then, give the side of the car a couple of good shoves. This should break the wheel free, but the lug nuts will keep it attached to the car. You could also try driving the car a few feet on the loose lugs if pushing it doesn't work, but don't go too far.

Broken Antenna

Radio reception can often be restored by inserting a length of wire cut from a coat hanger into the remains of a hollow antenna that's been snapped off. Secure the wire with a little duct tape. Bend the wire into a clever shape for a custom look.

Broken Window

Some heavy plastic and duct tape can be used to make a surprisingly effective repair over a broken window or one that's stuck in a down position. NASCAR pit crews use tape to secure fenders on cars that can travel at 200 mph, so it should also work for you. For plastic, a garbage bag will work in a pinch, but heavier-gauge sheeting from a home-repair store will last longer and, if it's clear, probably offer better visibility. Cut the plastic to a shape slightly larger than the window opening, and secure it with tape around the edges. After you get the window fixed, WD-40 will dissolve the adhesive residue left behind by the duct tape.

Harder work than you might be used to when it comes to your car? Well, yes. But it's better than paying a whole lot lot of money that you might just care to use for something else- hello, holidays!

John

Email John:  johnsblog@teshmedia.com

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Your game plan for car shopping

To buy, or not to buy...a car.  Is that your question?  Well, there are many reasons to hang on to "old reliable", we've talked about this before, but maybe, just maybe the time is right.  Cash for Clunkers is now off the table, but recent news from the auto industry is pretty good, and there are some great deals available- if you've decided it's right for you.  There- that's one hurdle.  Now...the car salesman.  Look, they're people, too!  But a little extra ammo in the way of automobile purchasing is never a bad thing, and AOL lines it up, so you can be ready to go in a make a great deal on "new reliable"!

1. Greet the car salesman warmly.

Smile and shake his hand. Be friendly. You want him to like you so that he'll work harder for you.

2. Get his attention by telling him what he wants to hear.

Tell him: "I'll be buying a car very soon." If after this introduction, you find the salesman rude or unwilling to help you, ask to speak to his Sales Manager. Tell the manager that you'd like a more helpful salesman.

3. Tell the car salesman exactly what you want to see.

Be specific as possible. For example: "I'd like to see what you have in a compact car with automatic transmission and a window sticker price of around $18,000." If you're not sure what you want or you're confused by all the choices, then tell him those things that you know are important to you, such as: "I need a four-door car with lots of cargo space and a window sticker price of around $18,000."

Under the guise of trying to help you, the salesman is going to ask you lots of questions. Do not discuss your monthly payments with him.

Then turn the tables on him. Ask him questions about the cars, the dealership and his business. Play dumb and try to learn as much as you can. Get him to like you by pumping his ego: compliment him on what a good job he's doing.

4. Check out the vehicles that he shows you.

When he shows you a car that you like - and that fits your needs and budget - look it over. Do you like the styling of the car? Can you see yourself driving it?

5. If it is a new vehicle, look at the factory window sticker.

The factory window sticker tells you all about the car. Read it carefully because it contains a lot of important information.

The window sticker will give you the predicted gas mileage for both highway and city driving. It will also list all of the equipment that comes standard with the vehicle and then, in a separate column, the options that have been built into the car at the factory with the price of each listed. Look for an "equipment package," a group of discounted options.

At the bottom of the sticker will be the asking price for the vehicle called the "M.S.R.P." which stands for "Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price". Be sure that this price fits your budget.

Some dealerships add a second window sticker called a "Dealer Addendum" in an effort to widen their profit margin. If you see one of these stickers, ignore it for now.

6. Ask about other versions of the same car.

Most vehicles come in several different equipment levels usually designated by a letter code such as DX, SE or XL. You might be able to get the same car with the equipment you want on a less expensive version.

7. If you like the car, sit inside.

Is the interior comfortable? How does the interior "feel"?

8. Ask the salesman if you can test drive the car.

He'll be happy to take you for a test drive.

Notice what's happening here: you're allowing the car salesman to breeze right through the steps of his game plan. He wants you to test drive that car. He thinks he's doing great and that he's in total control. What he doesn't know is that you know exactly what you are doing. In fact, you are in complete control here.

9. Drive the vehicle as you normally would.

Don't "baby" the car. If you normally accelerate hard, then drive it that way. If you normally brake hard or corner fast, then do so. Try to drive on the types of roads you normally drive. Be sure to turn the air conditioning on and off to see how it affects the performance of the engine. And don't forget to ask lots of questions.

10. After the drive, ask the salesman for a brochure.

He'll probably ask you something like: "Is there anything we can do to earn your business today?" or "If I could sell you this $18,000 car for only $12,000, would you buy it today?"

You must be firm and clear. Tell him: "I really appreciate all of your help but, as I told you at the beginning, I'll be buying soon but not today. I simply want a brochure and some information. If I decide to buy this particular car, then I will certainly come back to see you."

If the car salesman is a good guy, he'll get you the brochure. If not, he may disappear and then return with the "Sales Manager" who may or may not be the real Sales Manager. In any case, this new guy may try to "reason" with you, persuade you, perhaps even pressure you to buy today. Again, you must be firm. Repeat to him what you told the salesman.

Don't forget that they are playing a game. And you know exactly what game they are playing. So don't fall for their lines. Don't fall for their come-ons. And don't fall for their intimidation. There's nothing personal about this. It's pure business. That's how they see it. That's how you should see it, too. And don't forget that you have the final say. If they pressure you, you can always walk away.

If they won't give you the brochures you want, no worries. You can always get them direct from the manufacturer.

11. Ask the car salesman more questions.

Ask about factory rebates, the factory warranty, dealership service, local sales taxes, license fees and so on. When you're satisfied that you have the information you need, ask the salesman for his business card.

12. Thank the salesman politely -- then leave!

Whatever happens, under any circumstances, don't buy a car yet.

What should you do next? AOL recommends doing more research on the vehicle you drove, comparing it to others in its class and giving yourself time to think about it. As much as it feels like that one car won't be around if you pass it up, there's always another car. Or, you may decide, after some time considering the deal away from the dealership, that this, indeed, is the right car, at the right price, at the right time, for you.  In which case- congratulations!

Welcome to September!

John

Email John:  johnsblog@teshmedia.com

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How to Squeeze Out Every Drop of Gas You Buy!

Last summer, gasoline prices surged to record highs, causing Americans to stay at home and rethink their love affair with the automobile. Jump ahead a year: Fuel prices are down nearly 40 percent and the Automobile Association of America's travel and auto group is forecasting that trips by automobile will increase by 2.7 percent over last year, up from 26.3 million travelers to 27 million.  Chuck Tannert, writing for MSN Autos, sums up a list of cost saving "rules of the road."  Some involve proper maintenance of your vehicle, but most require a change in behavior. All will help ease the burden on your wallet, just in time before you take off for the annual family vacation:

Stop Driving Like a Maniac

Changing the way you drive is the most effective way to reduce the amount of fuel your car consumes. Accelerate gradually, drive smoothly and with care and you could see as much as a 33 percent gain in fuel economy on the highway and 5 percent around town, compared with what you'd get with an aggressive driving style, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. That means skipping those jackrabbit starts at stoplights and sudden pedal-to-the-metal maneuvers on the highway.

Limit Use of the Brake Pedal
Anticipate stops so you avoid sudden braking. In fact, spend as little time on the brakes as possible. "Any time you hit the brake [in a traditional gas-powered vehicle], you are throwing away energy," says Eric Kaufman, engineering manager for fuel economy and drive quality at General Motors. Take a long view of the road ahead, coasting safely to an intersection in front of you where you see traffic stopped.

Observe Posted Speed Limits
A car or truck moving at 55 mph can get about 15 percent better fuel economy than the same car going 65 mph. While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds), gas mileage usually decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph. You can assume that each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional 24 cents per gallon for gas.

Use Cruise Control Whenever Possible
Sure, it's a luxury convenience. But, when used properly, cruise control can also be a fuel saver. It smoothes out driver input, helps maintain an even speed and allows the driver to take a long look at the road, rather than reacting to every little change in the surrounding traffic.

Avoid Excessive Idling
Idling uses more fuel than turning the engine off and restarting it again. So if you are stopped for more than a minute, shut off the car. That means don't waste fuel by sitting in that drive-thru lane at McDonald's or Taco Bell; park and go inside instead. And shut off your vehicle while waiting outside the elementary school to pick up your children.

Turn the AC Down
When you're in slow city traffic, keep the air conditioner off, if possible. Lower the windows and open air vents to keep occupants comfortable. The air conditioner is a burden that uses fuel, and if you're tooling around town, you can see a slight improvement in gas mileage by keeping it turned off. On the highway, however, keep the windows closed and AC on low. Open windows will impede aerodynamics and hurt fuel economy.

Pulse and Glide
This is a favorite technique of so-called hypermilers, a unique breed of drivers who go to extraordinary lengths to get as much as they can from each gallon of gasoline. However, it can be done only with hybrid vehicles. The first step is to accelerate the vehicle to around 30 or 40 mph (pulse). Then, ease slightly back on the accelerator until no energy arrows appear on the energy monitor, indicating that the vehicle is neither relying on the engine nor recharging the battery. As a result, the car begins to glide. When the vehicle slows to about 30 mph, repeat the whole process again. The pulse-and-glide technique improves fuel economy by minimizing use of the internal combustion engine.

Plan Trips Ahead of Time
Combine your errands into one trip, rather than striking out multiple times during the day. Organize your stops so they're near each other and so you don't retrace your path. You may even be able to park in one central spot and walk between some of your stops, rather than driving and parking at each one. For commutes or events, organize a car pool and plan to travel during less congested times of day. When there's less traffic, you're more likely to drive smoothly. Use navigation aids on the Internet or in your vehicle to keep from getting lost — and thus wasting fuel — when you're headed to a new, unknown location.

Keep Up With Maintenance
A well-maintained vehicle operates at peak efficiency. An inefficient engine — with fouled spark plugs, for example — won't make optimal use of fuel. Be sure the air filter and the fuel filter are clean. Replace them if they're not. Even something as simple as having tires inflated to the automaker's maximum recommended pressure can improve gas mileage by as much as 6 percent, while periodic wheel alignments can help improve fuel economy up to 10 percent, according to the EPA.

Get Rid of What You Don't Need
Clean out that trunk, cargo area or pickup bed. Take out unneeded items that only add weight to your vehicle. Extra weight decreases gas mileage. According to the EPA, every 100 pounds of unnecessary weight could reduce fuel mileage by up to 2 percent. Also remove anything that causes additional aerodynamic drag, such as a bug shield, roof rack or cargo carrier. These have the same effect as adding weight; i.e., they increase the demand on your engine, causing premature wear and tear and reducing your car's fuel efficiency.  Tougher to do if you're packing luggage in your car for vacation, so be as judicious as possible.

Enjoy a few more pennies, and if you are soon off on the trail of making family memories, have safe and happy travels!

John

Email John:  johnsblog@teshmedia.com

Check out the new John Tesh Social Network. You can connect with new friends, post your own blog, visit various forums, upload your favorite John Tesh music and share your photos.  To learn more about how to join, click here.

Keep Old Reliable? Or go for Snazzy New?

It's been pretty hard to ignore the silver lining in the automaker crash of recent months, and the last two weeks, in particular, seem to scream "buyer's market!"  What a question:  even if you hadn't been considering- at all!- a new car purchase, are you finding yourself crunching the numbers a little bit, or driving by the car lots a little slower?  Big decision, so let's divide car-buying into two camps of people: those who keep a car until it drops, and those who think a new car will change their lives. MSN Money makes a point that packs a pretty hefty punch in favor of hanging on to "Old Reliable."

To the first, a round of applause. There's nothing short of the bus that's cheaper than keeping a car until it crumbles into a pile of rust. Almost any car can be nursed to 200,000 miles without endangering your life, and even a new engine is cheaper than all but the cheapest used cars.

To the second, another round of applause, because the 16 million or so new cars they buy every year instantly become used cars soon available at a considerable discount to those in Camp 1. And for those in the "I'll buy" camp, a moment of reflection, because a new car will change their lives in ways they never foresaw on the dealer's lot.

If you're in a drive-until-the-muffler-is-dragging model, read on. We'll look at ways to keep your car on the road longer and realistically weigh the costs of upgrading.

I'd love to keep my old car, but …

• It no longer fits my life. You may have taken up gardening in a big way but still own a Corvette. You may feel nervous about taking your '78 Ford on a trip to Colorado. Your little Accord may be a tight squeeze when family comes to town. The answer to all: Rent. Why buy a gas-sucking pickup because you visit Home Depot twice a year or a $30,000 sport-utility because you take the kids skiing for a week at Easter? Even at $100 a weekend, renting is far cheaper than a car payment. Plus you get to drive the very latest without worrying about insurance, license tags, maintenance or depreciation. Or try swapping cars with a friend, returning it gassed-up and clean (with the oil changed, too, if the loan was more than a day or two. You want to be able to ask again next year.).

• Those repair bills are really adding up. Then do the math. Does the cost of repairs exceed the cost of a new car? A typical new car is $21,000, about $350 a month for five years after 20% down. A rebuilt transmission might run $1,500, a huge outlay in one chunk, but far less than the $4,200 a year you'd spend on new-car payments alone. If you can't afford repairs twice a year, it's unlikely you can afford a new car payment every month. In any case, anybody with a car older than three years should be tucking aside $50 a month for repairs and maintenance. If the gods smile, you'll never use most of it and you'll have a tidy sum to blow on your next car.

• I'm nervous driving an older car. Maybe little things are beginning to go: a new thermostat one month, a starter the next. You might simply spend $50 on a AAA membership and carry a cell phone, reminding yourself that even new cars aren't immune to mechanical failure. The upside of frequent breakdowns is that you'll get to know mechanics quite well. Find one you like. Flatter him. Pay your bills on time. And the next time he fixes your car, ask him to take a few minutes to see what else will need repair soon.

• The repair costs more than the car is worth. A $1,500 engine rebuild that keeps your '83 Toyota on the road still makes good financial sense. It's at this point, however, that all but the flintiest drivers begin to think about upgrading.

And the next big question to ask is this:  am I ready for a new car, and ALL the new financial responsibility that goes with it?

Your first step is to do nothing except write a check to yourself in the amount you're thinking you can afford every month. Put aside a car payment every month for three months (long enough for at least one of life's little emergencies to crop up).

To pass the time, make three phone calls: one to your bank, to find out what kind of rates they charge on loans to people with your credit history; one to your insurer, to ask the rates for comprehensive insurance on a model you think you'd like to buy; and one to your local DMV, to see what registration and licensing would cost.

At the end of three months, ask yourself these questions:

• How much did it hurt? If you skimped at all on other bills or shorted the amount of the payment, you're not ready.

• Would I have enough left over to pay for insurance and licensing fees each year?

• Would I pay this much every month for the car that's in my driveway already? Sooner or later, every new car becomes an old car, and you'll feel about the next car just the way you do about your old clunker.

• Would I rather have the cash? Our typical car payment, $350, adds up to more than $1,000 in just three short months. Perhaps you'd prefer to get a tan in Mexico and limp along with ol' Betsy another year.

• Could I continue to save for another year and simply pay cash?  Yes, some of the hard-to-resist publicity is hard-to-ignore, but realistically, five grand would buy any of hundreds of reliable used models. Save for two years and you're in new-car territory, if your old car will fetch a few thousand.

If the craving for a shinier car hasn't passed in three months, at least you begin the shopping process with a few months' worth of car payments and a more realistic idea of the hit your wallet will take.

Side note: Never skimp on maintenance

Pay special attention to the things that will cost you a fortune if they break. That means regular oil changes, tire rotations and transmission tune-ups, even if the car is running fine. Timing belts, for example, seem pricey at as much as $600, and replacing one for no other reason than that the odometer has turned 90,000 miles might seem wasteful. But let one break and you'll find that repairing bent valves could cost you three times that. Replacing torn CV boots, those plastic housings that keep grime and grit out of the car's constant-velocity joints, costs about a third as much as a CV joint repair. (Get that owner's manual out of the glove box if you're not sure about your car's specific requirements.)

John

Email John:  johnsblog@teshmedia.com

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A car wreck could cost you big time.

While I'm sure it goes without saying that none of us would ever want to be in a car accident, what you should know (take it as gentle, extra encouragement to SLOW DOWN on the road!) is that even a minor accident- even one that is not your fault- could end up costing you a lot of money.  Here's the lowdown, from one of our favorites, MSN Money's Liz Pulliam Weston. 

We all know the turmoil facing auto makers and dealers these days, but even your later model car carries a risk these days, in part due to the black cloud hanging over our economic climate.  Retail values for used cars are falling, just like much of our economy, which means your car is probably worth less than you think, and perhaps less than you owe. If your car is stolen or totaled, you may not get enough from your insurance company to pay off your lease or loan.  They'll pay what the car is currently worth, which may be considerably less than what you owe on it. 

If reading this makes you a bit jittery, you may want to investigate purchasing GAP (Guaranteed Automobile Protection) insurance, which could be a pretty cheap solution. 

Chances are good you need gap insurance if:

• You purchased a new car and didn't have a substantial down payment -- at least 20% and perhaps as much as 50%.

• You're leasing a car.

• You financed your car for more than four years.

• You rolled debt from your last car into your current auto loan.

These car-buying practices can spell risk for you.  Consumers are often convinced by an eager salesperson that the risks are minimal, and we often convince ourselves to buy more car than we can afford, or should be buying.  Unfortunately, these situations can leave you owing more on your car than it's worth.

Here's an example. You buy or lease a car for around $25,000. Several months down the road, it's totaled, but your insurance check covers only the car's current value, which is about $20,000. Not only do you have to find new wheels, but you're on the hook to the finance or lease company for a gap of about $5,000.

If you rolled debt from your old loan into your new one, the amount you owe could be even larger, spelling even higher risk for you.

Now, there are two scenarios where "underwater" drivers don't have to worry about gap insurance:

• If it's already included in your lease. In some states, including New York, leases by law must include gap coverage.

• If your auto policy is written to cover the gap. This isn't the norm, but some auto policies promise to pay off a loan regardless of the car's worth. You can try reading your policy to see if you're covered for any gaps or simply call your insurer and ask.

If you don't have coverage already, the solution fortunately doesn't have to be terribly expensive. You typically can buy the coverage:

From the dealership or auto finance company. This is probably the most expensive choice, especially if you roll the cost into your monthly note. You typically pay a one-time premium of $300 to $500 or more, plus interest if it's added to your loan or lease. Another disadvantage: You'll continue paying that interest as long as you pay on the car, even after you're no longer upside down on your loan.

From your current auto insurer. It's usually the best choice if your insurer offers the coverage.  Some insurance companies offer gap coverage that averages as low as $20 every six months, said Insure.com's Danise. You can drop it once you're sure you're in the black. 

From another insurance carrier. If your auto insurer doesn't offer gap insurance -- State Farm and Geico are among those that don't, Danise said -- you can look for gap insurance providers. Make sure they have top marks from one of the rating services such as A.M. Best, Standard & Poor's or TheStreet.com Ratings (formerly Weiss Ratings).

As will all insurance plans, GAP insurance is something you may never need (oh, and I hope you won't), but it makes such good financial sense if you're not in the black, and may not be for longer than you may have thought.   

John

Email John:  johnsblog@teshmedia.com

Check out the new John Tesh Social Network. You can connect with new friends, post your own blog, visit various forums, upload your favorite John Tesh music and share your photos.  To learn more about how to join, click here.